Before The Architect - House Design Consulting, Louisiana Shotgun House

LA Shotgun House

BEFORE THE ARCHITECT – HOME DESIGN CONSULTING

LOUISIANA SHOTGUN HOME REDESIGN

Our work at Before The Architect is most useful to and appreciated by those who have been-there, done-that with architects and builders, and prefer not to go back there and get it done to them again. AG

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The following is a verbatim copy of a home design consulting commission we executed for a couple in Baton Rouge, LA. They bought a duplex Shotgun-style home, and wanted us to consult on home design concepts that would unify the interior into a single dwelling unit, open it up inside, make the unusually limited space more useful, and rationalize travel patterns and lines of sight.

NOTE: [Client Name], Baton Rouge, LA

FROM: Before The Architect, Cumming, GA

RE: Design Concepts – Home

DATE: January 12, 2005

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INTRODUCTION

Our commentary to follow is based on the following protocols:

1. Stay close in interpreting passage and drawn lines as provided, noting that we think our notions are not very specifically dimension-dependent

2. Stay close in interpreting passages as provided, noting that we think our notions are not very specifically passage dependent, either

3. Draw all doors at 2’-2”

4. Maintain cryptic references to space as indicated on the .pdfs in “Key to abbreviations” and repeated herewith to be comprehensive – BD=BeDroom; CLO=CLOset; CPO=Covered POrch; FBT=BaTh; H=Hall; K=Kitchen; LR=Living Room; LRY=LaundRY; MCLO=Master CLO; MBD=Master BD; MBT=Master BaTh; OPO=Open Porch; S=Study; SPO=Screened POrch; SR=Sitting Room

Louisiana Shotgun Home As-Is Basic Floor plan.

GENERAL COMMENT

The natural progression of spaces front-to-back from more common to more private is classic, superior home design –

We think it wise of you to have distinguished community space at the front end of the home, ranging steadily from more open (CPO) to less open to community occupancy (bordered by the FBO).

We think it wise of you to have distinguished increasingly private spaces (from the FBO to SR and LRY) as we move farther into the home.

Total space offered being characteristically narrow requires emphases of certain home designing elements–

Increase lighting, preferably natural over artificial and preferably the more the better

Extend interior volume (and light), e.g., -

	Lighter interior colors,
	Mirrors
	Transoms
	French doors
	Interior glazes, most usually decorative - beveled, frosted, stained, etc.
	Windows opposite passage entries
	Passage doors near or at room corners, giving a diagonal perspective to room appearance on entry (more efficient use of wall space, too)

Highly decorate walls in closer spaces –

	Selectively, a surfeit of wall hangings
	Interior volume extenders, as above
	Wall-washing light
	Bright termini to darker spaces, as at either ends of a hall

INDIVIDUAL SPACES

Let’s start from the Front Of House and work our way back.

CPO

	Probably a sacred space, judging from your .mov of the environs and our general appreciation of shotgun home designing. It is not to be substantially amended (though it’d make for some swell interior additions).
	If we had our druthers, we’d suck up some of this space at least for a vestibule, being less than enamored of moving from exterior space directly into a formal living space, in this instance the LR. (More on this point below.)
	While the CPO may be decoratively elaborated, the neighborhood standard should rule your artful options.

FRONT OF HOUSE FAÇADE

	We need a single front door. It should be obvious to passers-by that it is the front door.
	Whatever the arrangement of door and windows on this face, the windows should be generous in size, and we’d welcome a door with extensive glazing, given that this home face is a major contributor to natural light to the interior
	The grouping of door(s) and window(s) should be symmetrical
	You might consider using the first 7’ or so of S/BD as a vestibule, possibly with a privacy door between vestibule and S/BD, and a visually and physically diagonal entry to the LR. Such vestibule-S/BD door should be French with transom for light penetration. The transom is in-keeping with home designing style; the ceiling heights can take it.

Please open the A wall between LR and S/BD. How far to open it depends on –

	How you want the two space to relate – party-time extension, working in tandem, somewhat private
	The extent that you need to obstruct light intrusion to the space for home theatre entertainment
	The extent that you can privatize the S/BD space when it’s operating solo as a BD

It’s most likely chosen to set doors between LR and S/BD

We think that there must be occasions when you will benefit greatly by annexing the S/BD to the LR and other times when some degree of separation is warranted. In this regard –

Please consider French doors and transoms again,

Please consider even including fixed-panel doors or on rails or slides.

Please open the B wall between LR and S/BD. This is as much a lifestyle consideration in the doing of it as anything else –

	Wide or narrow, high or low?
	Open for conversation or bar top or countertop seating?

Closeable offable or unobstructable?

The view from LR to K should be appealing, eye-catching, colorful, varied (see K below for one way to help this happen)

Most take well to keeping lines of sight blocked from stacks of after-meal dishes and cook pans, which inclines one to opt for a B wall opening higher and blockable offable, since there is –

	Insufficient surface area in the K for an island sink and high counter blocker or the like and
	Insufficient angularity to conceal LR lines of sight from sink and dish-burdened countertop and stovetop in the frontward outside corner of the K

A large mirror on wall C, up to and including a mirror covering all of wall C, is suggested to boost interior light and, more importantly, to widen visual perception of the LR-S/BD space

S/BD

Please close off the shared CLO1 to favor a substantial CLO for the BD exclusively

Possibly, you can acquire some of CLO1 for home entertainment gear-

Either within the CLO1 as-built

Or you might even be so bold as to consider a small closet for vestibule entry which closet could be made of a portion of the front end of the S/BD. If that closet takes up more of S/BD than you’d fully appreciate, either lower your sites on the size of S/BD or slide the back end of S/BD and the abutting CLO toward the back. You needn’t go far to achieve great, positive differences. (More on this later.) Incidentally, if you go for the vestibule closet idea, please open it from the vestibule.

We reckon your description of home entertainment attendance meant that you’ve be viewing in-line with the long axis of the home. If we got that wrong, we apologize for our misunderstanding.

Two elements of the K are key to us –

Please keep the utility, or working, area of the K out of the easily inferred passage – nearly a hallway of its own – from LR through to H1. Sink, refrigerator, stove, ovens, microwaves…all of it…completely out of that travel lane.

Please brighten up this space with light. Given physical proximity to your neighbor’s wall line, we suggest you look skywards, and investigate solar tubes from among the several makers of them….dramatic light, directed as you see fit, practically all-day illumination, no loss to security as from skylights, easy to install. Not less than one or two should go to work on the floor and countertop area at the backside of the K both for the immediately local benefits and for the visual distinction this’d make from LR lines of sight.

You may apply some storage or decorative presentation capacity in the dead corner at the upper right, to the right of the K passage to H1

You may add artificial light

Notably both

	Task and general lighting for darker hours and
	Undercabinet lighting for the safety and well-being of the K occupants (and another line of sight feature from the LR)

In re kitchen layout, please consider these points in our Home Design Standards-Home Building Standards –

A kitchen work triangle –

	Shall point from 1 linear foot interior to the centerlines or handles of all 3 components – stovetop, refrigerator, primary sink
	Shall not intersect an active travel pattern

Comment: Such intersection the AG finds is the most common failure in triangle layout, and the most potentially tragic.

	Shall not be obstructed as by an island or peninsula or pantry or desk or anything else
	May be compromised by a second sink’s substitution for a leg (e.g., Leg 1 = refrigerator to sink #1; Leg 2 = refrigerator to stovetop; Leg 3 = stovetop to sink #2)

Key to abbreviations: ABV=ABoVe; C/C=Counter ABV Cabinet; CLG=CeiLinG; DW=Dishwasher; EXT=EXTerior; KSK=Kitchen Sink; LP=Load Point; MT=Masonry Tile; NGT=Not Greater Than; OFFL=Over Finish Floor Level; PRM=PeRiMeter; R&S=Racks & Storage; R/F=Refrigerator/Freezer; VERT=VERTical

Comment: The AG knows 2 things about this standard as stated. 1. Other standards don’t give away that foot forward as does this one, and the AG asks, “Then where do you stand in front of your kitchen appliances?” 2. If you don’t follow these rules, especially b. and c., you’re in for a lot of inconvenience and safety troubles both short-term and long-term. The illustration immediately above supports these kitchen triangle design specifications.

[Dear Reader, Sorry that this'll be the last of the colored bullets and the font above, thanks to the crappy FrontPage software and stinky instructions from Microsoft as reckoned in the opinion of this home designer.]

Refrigerator wall space shall be drawn at not less than 38 linear inches width

Comment: Make it a standard procedure to inquire early-on about intentions regarding appliances: size of refrigerator, more than one refrigerator, a separate freezer, more than one or two ovens, a dishwasher or two or more, a wine cooler, etc.

FBT

No comment beyond updating.

· If sliding back the back wall of S/BD and CLO cuts into needed space in BD, keep on sliding….BD into BT space, BT into SR space. (It’s is our vision that the space donor bigtime in our shotgun is the SR space. It can afford to be smaller and more intimate and still be eminently functional.)

· Please be careful to provide adequate emergency egress via windows in sleeping areas. We quote herein after from our own quarterly e-publication Home Design Standards-Home Building Standards –

o Each sleeping area whether –

§ Designated or

§ Proposed or

§ Potential

o Shall have not less than 2 ways for an occupant to egress

o 1 of which shall be a window –

§ Not less than 5.7 square feet OPENABLE surface area on upper floors

§ Not less than 5.0 square feet openable surface area on ground-level floor

§ Openable width shall not be less than 20 linear inches

§ Openable height shall not be less than 24 linear inches

§ With sill top of face not greater than 44 linear inches over finish floor level (or over finish grade level)

Comment: This seemingly simple formula is trickier than it appears, and if you don’t understand its math, it can cost you plenty. An opening which measures both minimum width and height of 20 linear inches x 24 linear inches = 3.3 square feet, i.e.: it’s an insufficient minimum opening area; to satisfy minimum area with given minimum width and height derives openings of 20 linear inches x 42 linear inches or 35 linear inches x 24 linear inches.

Comment: It’s more than worth noting here that this math applies to openable area. The AG vaguely recalls that at some time in the distant past this rule applied to a rough opening or a jamb-to-jamb, jamb-to-sill or –stool opening after a fire axe was actively wielded around a window opening. That’s not so now, for sure. Openable means just that. So, openable area is greater in a casement the same overall size as a double-hung. You’ll find that window manufacturers – at least the better ones – clearly identify openable area for each of its windows, often to 2 decimal places.

· If a window’s openable area is lockable

o Then the locking mechanism shall be operable from the interior

o Without tools or keys and

o Be clearly identifiable

· If the window’s openable area is obstructed by window guards, security bars, grilles, or grates

o Then these obstructions shall be releasable to completely clear the openable surface

§ Without use of tools or keys, and

o The release mechanisms in shall be maintained operable and the window shall be maintained openable and

o The window shall be

§ Clearly identifiable from both exterior and interior

§ With access

§ Directly to the emergency exit and

§ Not through another space

o With the outside area beyond the exit

§ Measuring from the window sill’s top of face and

§ Measuring on the horizontal

§ Shall not be less than the window’s width and

§ Shall not be less than 4 linear feet in depth

Comment: These rigors of access aren’t usually all that rigorous, except in three home design situations we’ve come across: 1) story-and-a half structures wherein availability of suitable dormer space on roof planes can be significantly limited; 2) given levels involving “L-shaped” elements wherein available space can be blocked off at the legs’ juncture; 3) “block U” and “L-shaped” structures that vary in height of levels wherein steeper roof pitches over lower levels can mask precious wall space for emergency egress opportunities at upper levels.

· In our book, this prescript would apply also to the S/BD and the MBD

· Also, for safety’s sake, please provide smoke detectors, preferably to the Autocad Granddad’s safety home design specifications (which specs would apply, too, to the S/BD and MBD spaces) –

o Within 5 linear feet of each passage from the sleeping area both within the sleeping area and outside it

o Permanently connected to each other and those in the rest of the home such that when one or more sounds an alarm, all sound an alarm throughout the entire home

o Energized to run on both permanent 120V and replaceable battery

o Each featuring a combination of ionization and photoelectric sensors

o None shall disconnect by wall switch

· Please close passage E between BD and the H2through to SR. At that wall, there endeth community space for sure

· If possible, set the H1-BD passage to a BD-corner site for added visual dimension on entry or just passing by

CLO2

· We assume this is a closet for general storage

· Could CLO2 be reassigned for exclusive duty for (and access from) the MBD?

MBT

· This space begs to grow up

· Please consider therewith that it is more blessed to giveth from the SR than taketh on claustrophobic symptoms from that tight, tight space as is every time you ooch yourself around in there

· We’re not suggesting that you secund the majority let alone the entirety of the SR for the MBT; however, you can do well to look into even a 5 linear feet whirlpool that could double as a fine shower, some more countertop, maybe even a sitting space for m’lady’s daily preparations

· Solar tube. Solar tube. Wherefore art thou, if not in this space? Excellent idea. Bathrooms cannot be too bright and cheery

MBD

· Please open wall D between MBD and the Hall2 to MBT

o That passage should be private and convenient to MBT as it is to SR

· In the passage F, we prefer a solid door w/ transom for a little added light both ways and a lot of privacy

· The more CLO space the better so long as they number no more than two- his and hers, whereat hers is always the larger

OPO

· While tempted to reapply this space, we’re more inclined to leave it as-is for good ventilation in the MBD/SR area

· We’ve thought briefly about extending it backwards, but saw no functional benefit in so doing

LRY

· This is too teeny-tiny a space for its function

o Please consider extending this space into the SPO, taking its interior wall back with it, that is, by reducing the surface area of the SPO

· We note that over/under clothes washer-dryers are numerous on the open market and very popular even in high-end applications

o So space-sensitive

· Add a utility wash tub if you can

o A 2’x2’ tub could be a big plus in utility

· Add a smallish hanging area if you can for air-drying

· Add a table for clothes folding table if you can

o Nothing huge, just useful

· Add an ironing board if you can

o There are marvelous, sizable, foldable upable boards readily acquired and easily installed

· We’ve offered over and over to take a big chunk from this area, and we’re not a bit saddened by our excesses

o This space can stand trimming for very good measures

· If you think you need more of this space, you might extend it into the SPO area, taking over some or all of the SPO (or what’s left of it after the LRY invasion and occupation)

· This is one space whereat less-than-shining-bright could be appropriate, depending on lifestyle and, therefrom, decoration

· Care should be taken to create some degree of definite physical separation of SR and MBD both in terms of late-night light and sound penetration from the SR into the sleeping area

o A potential resolution of some part of this need to physically separate could be achieved by setting the passage between MBD and SR at the forward end of SR, additionally gaining a beneficial, diagonal view on entry

SPO

· In valuing spaces, this one is hard to scrape off the bottom of our list

· It may serve a ventilation purpose

o If so, it needn’t be almost as capacious as the larger, interior rooms

· It may serve as space in-between outside and inside. If so , it still could be trimmed and be useful

· It’s not a community area

· It may be an adjunct to private space, but we cannot tell that for sure from here

VENTING ATTICS

· Here are a heap of words on the subject of passive and mechanical venting of roof areas (essentially, attics) excerpted from our quarterly [then 219 pages, by 3Q09 951pages] e-publication, Home Design Standards-Home Building Standards

VENTING HOME DESIGN STANDARDS

· Do you want to hear the bad news now, or live it later? Before The Architect

· Venting shall not be less than 1 square foot "net free" vent area to 150 square feet of vented surface area, regardless of the area location or physically proximate form of vapor or moisture barrier

· Where there are high exhaust vents and low intake vents, net free area shall apply separately as follows before adjustments –

o Calculate square feet of total surface area to ventilate

o Divide that total by 150

o Apply that quotient to low ventilation

o Apply half that quotient to high ventilation

Comment: Note that these calculations are often satisfied by ridge vents high with 1 linear inch gaps to sheathing either side of ridge board and doubled vent strips at the soffits. See vent manufacturers’ net free vent area statements about their products and discount those statements by not less than 15%. Apply only top of the line vent products, e.g., Headrick, Certain Teed, and GAF.

· Where there are only high vents, net free area shall apply as follows before adjustments –

o Calculate square feet of total surface area to ventilate

o Divide that total by 150

· Net free vent area shall be the area of a vent opening adjusted by the following factors –

o 4 linear inch-1/8 linear inch screen alone or louvers alone= 1.25

o 1/16 linear inches screen=2.00

o Louvers and 1/4 linear inch-1/8 linear inches screen=2.25

o Louvers and 1/16 linear inch screen=3.00

· All reasonable effort shall be made to cross-ventilate each vented area

· Ventilation shall not be an offset or substitute for mitigations of, among others –

o Continuous moisture

o Inadequate vapor insulation

o Inadequate thermal insulation

o Absence of radiant barriers

o Darker roof covering color

o Inadequate sealing of interior

o Inadequate drainage for runoff, footings, and sanitation

o Inadequate hygiene

o Poorly graded site and other landscaping matters

o Poor siting of the structure

· Passive vents shall not be closable, blockable, closed, or blocked

· Continuous soffit strips shall be preferred over any other form of soffit or low-intake ventilation

· Vented drip edge shall be a prohibited material on roofs with 4:12 pitch or less

· Vent strips at eaves shall not be sited –

o Within 3 linear feet of a window or door in the level immediately below, or

o Where wall or attic insulation will block ventilation

· For mechanical vent exhaust

o Apply no passive ridge or gable-end vents

· An attic exhaust fan –

o Shall not be visible from front of house

o Rivet heads and sheet-metal laps shall be silicone-sealed

Comment: Don’t be put off by this silicone-sealing. The best of ‘em can leak at these penetrations and joints; the silicone-sealing effort and materials are minimal.

o Shall be distributed evenly

o Shall be controlled by

§ Thermostat

§ Humidistat

§ Preferably, by automatic heat sensor high-heat cut-off

§ Preferably by 2-speed [or better] switching internal to each fan’s wiring

o Shall be clearly identified at interior by 1-120V single-pole pilot light switch locked closed

o Shall be the quieter the better

Comment: This point about “quieter the better” is a very tough slog to clarify with roof-mounted exhaust fan manufacturers. Roof vent fan manufacturers have not been cooperative in the opinion of this home designer in this regard, including Nutone/Broan.

o Shall be wired in parallel

o Shall be preferably of 2-speeds

Comment: Apply only soffit or eave vents or both in accord with standards above.

Comment: It shall be understood that soffit or eave vents may be doubled or even tripled to effect as above.

VENTED CRAWLSPACES

· The same principles and math apply to vented crawlspaces

o If your crawlspace is considerably open to atmosphere, e.g., the home is on piers of a sort without solid skirting between them, there are several sizeable gaps in skirting, the skirting is latticework, etc., then we shall remain silent

o If on the other hand, your crawlspace is enclosed and poorly ventilated to atmosphere or ventilated not at all, please follow the math above for vented attics without low intakes and attend to the following excerpt from our e-pub

· Special consideration shall be made for foundation crawlspace ventilation in this order from more preferential to less preferential

o Then the crawlspace shall be vented, including –

§ There shall be a continuous moisture and vapor barrier at grade consisting of high density polyethylene sheet silicone sealed at laps and laid over clean, smooth substrate

o Each foundation face greater than 3 linear feet in length shall have a foundation vent

o Each vent shall be as high on the foundation as possible

o Each vent shall be within 3 linear feet of a corner

o Vent capacity shall be determined using 3. above

INTERIOR EXHAUST FANS

· Finally, we offer advice on venting of interior exhaust fans, e.g., stovetop exhaust, bathroom exhaust, etc. (excerpted from more than a single citation, not necessarily in order of our published presentation)

· Interior exhaust fan vents shall not exit a home exterior within 10 linear feet of –

o A soffit vent

o An operable window

o A door

o An operable skylight

o A deck

o A balcony

o A walkway or pathway

o A seating area

· An interior exhaust fan to the exterior –

o Shall be installed by competent HVAC contractors (if such exhausts are numerous or, otherwise, if back-drafting is a concern

o Shall run to exterior only

§ Via smooth metal conduit

§ With joints sealed by high-quality metal foil tape or, preferably, mastic

Comment: See the HVAC section later on in this monograph for sealing tips and tricks, including specific products suggested for your consideration.

§ Without interconnection with other conduit unless otherwise specified by HVAC contractors and manufacturers’ specifications

o Shall be assisted by in-line booster –

o If conduit run calculates to not greater than 15% of maximum allowable run and

o Then with a carbon monoxide detector installed in each high-potential area of hazard for negative pressure, or back draft

· Fan(s) for bathroom exhaust –

o Shall be located in each bathroom without regard to that bathroom’s site within the home and

o Shall be rated –

§ At not less than 12 air exchanges per hour (do the math: multiply room surface area in square feet times room ceiling height in square feet to get room’s cubic feet, then multiply that cubic feet number by 12 to determine the minimum cubic feet per hour that need be moved to achieve 12 air exchanges, then divide by 60 to determine the minimum cubic feet per minute to qualify for our air exchange metric)

Comment: If your calculation of the minimum cubic feet per minute to qualify for our air exchange metric is within 10% of the nearest product’s maximum, go up a notch in product

Comment: In smaller bathrooms wherein even 12 air exchanges per hour calculates to a small value for cubic feet per minute. Just pick up a desirable fan (with light, with night light, low sones, etc) with the closest rating to that low number.

o Shall be controlled by a timer switch

o Shall be vented to the exterior only.

Comment: NOTE that exterior does not mean crawlspace.

Comment: NOTE that exterior does not mean attic.

o Shall conform to exhaust site on the exterior as described elsewhere in this monograph, sufficiently clear of doors, windows, soffits, etc.

· In kitchens,

o It shall be considered indicative that –

§ A common rule of thumb for rangetop exhaust fans in commercial applications is 300 cubic feet per minute exhaust capacity per each linear foot of rangetop

§ A common rule of thumb for rangetop exhaust fans in home application is 100 cubic feet per minute exhaust capacity per each square foot of hood surface area on the horizontal

o In any case, the range hood shall be not less in width than the –

§ Rangetop width

§ Preferably to 6 linear inches wider

o Shall be vented to the exterior only

Comment: NOTE that exterior does not mean crawlspace.

Comment: NOTE that exterior does not mean attic.

· Please note overall that venting to the “exterior” does not mean to a crawlspace or to an attic or to a soffit or to any other place except to open atmosphere.

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